Windhoek – Expansive & Elegant (2022)

Windhoek – Expansive & Elegant (2022)

Like Delhi, Windhoek is perched on the edge of the desert, but unlike Delhi, there’s no alluvial river to fertilize it, nor is there abundant vegetation to clothe it. To me, Windhoek appeared like a disrobed town, fair, clean and orderly in its nakedness. The streets are very wide, clean and well paved. The houses look spanking new, orderly and box-like. The cars are mostly 4×4. Tourists need to hire cars and drive around, no public transport except taxis and shared vans in Windhoek. I was driving at 120km/ hour most of the time. Absolutely no traffic outside of Windhoek. In Windhoek, we first headed to Katutura, the Namibian Dharavi. Tin shacks that burn singe and bake when the sun is up and freeze at night. No ditches or drains.

Legoland of box-like prefab houses ensconced in unpostered compounds, all looking minted afresh (how do they manage the dust-storms?). Construction is entirely concrete and zinc sheets for roofing. Trees are usually camel-thorn or acacia, no grass unless deliberately raised and maintained. Palm trees grow everywhere and add a touch of glamour to an otherwise arid landscape. Germans do seem to have a penchant for all things old. Decorations in most of the lodges we stayed in comprised old typewriters, sewing machines, biscuit tins, car parts, tyres, ancient advertisement hoardings and boards, notices, discarded junk deliberately placed to catch your eye. Moonraker lodge where we stayed in Windhoek was truly located in a moonscape with stunning views all around.

What strikes you most about Namibia is its expanse and its Germanic order. Namibia was ruled by Germans for over 200 years before the Germans left after the First Word War. In marched South Africans – the Afrikaaners actually and took over. It took much struggle and bloodshed before Sam Nujoma was able to break the colonial shackles. Many Afrikaaners and Germans stayed back. Afrikaans is widely spoken as is German.
A well-curated museum of the history of Namibia chronicles the bloody battles – when South African (white) defence forces air and ground bombed innocent black civilians in an attempt to capture parts of southern africa (not South Africa) vacated by Germans after the first world war. Did you know that Namibia finally won its independence from the South Africans as late as 1990? Sam Nujoma, the crusader became the first president and the museum pays him homage. His statue adorns the front of this glass and chrome structure that rises discordantly among colonial buildings that house the parliament and other institutions. A lovely church built by the Germans stands opposite the museum.